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Issue: 6 March 2008

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» On the right scent

From Victorian cut glass and streamlined Modernist creations to rare design classics and quirky novelty items, scent bottles are both decorative and collectable, if you have the nose for it, says Francesca Collin

The range of scent bottles available to collectors is vast. Most collectors today concentrate on the 18th century to the present day. Prices vary according to decoration, quality and the presence of the original packaging.

To be successful, by the mid-20th century perfumes required an identifiable container and packaging. Designer fragrances became popular in 1921, with the introduction of Chanel’s No. 5 perfume. Bizarre designs, such as Jean Paul Gaultier’s corseted bottle and tin container are becoming collector’s pieces today.

Perhaps the best tip if you want to start collecting perfume bottles is to hold on to the free samples available over the counter – but don’t be tempted to try the scent first!

1 [lot 960 July 05]

025_LHS02_antiques_4.jpgDuring the 18th century only the wealthiest could afford the status symbol of fragrance. The containers were of decorated enamel or colourless glass, with gilt metal or silver mounts. As a result of the Industrial Revolution a prosperous middle class was able to afford scent too and by the middle of the 19th century the demand grew for attractive containers, including coloured glass from Bohemia. Although commonly over 100 years old these bottles are often reasonably priced. These ruby glass bottles with silver overlay sold for £150 at Gorringes.

2 [Lot 740 April 05]

025_LHS02_antiques_2.jpgThis pair of early Victorian perfume bottles fetched £150. When examining bottles, look for traces of poor restoration if they are made of porcelain. If they are made of glass, like these, avoid any cracks or damage to the painting on the glass itself. Another tip is to feel inside the neck of the bottle for chips.

3 [Lot 927 Victorian glass bottles]

This group of Victorian cut glass scent bottles shows the range of deeply cut and faceted bottles produced in the 19th century. This group fetched £100 at Gorringes.
025_LHS02_antiques_3.jpg

4 [Lalique apple-shaped bottle]

025_LHS02_antiques_1.jpgIn 1907, the great French glass designer Rene Lalique teamed up with parfumier Francois Coty to launch the concept of selling highclass perfumes in their own, stylish, speciallydesigned bottles. Major fragrance houses and fashion designers commissioned Lalique to produce for them, and their work is now highly coveted. This Lalique perfume bottle, in the shape of an apple, recently sold at Gorringes for £210. The company produced containers for numerous small perfumeries and collectors should look carefully, as not all bottles are marked.

5 [lot 1697 Dec 05]

025_LHS02_antiques_5.jpgNovelty perfume containers come in all shapes and sizes. This silver-topped ceramic scent bottle modelled as a walnut was produced in Birmingham in 1920 and sold for £110 (part lot). During the 20th century the demand for cheaper cosmetics and scents continued apace and commercial producers slipped scent bottles into a Bakelite shoe or tucked them inside a tiny fur-fabric teddy bear.

International Perfume Bottle Association
www.ipba-uk.co.uk
Gorringes, 15 North Street, Lewes, East Sussex BN7 2PD.
Call 01273 472503 or see www.gorringes.co.uk.

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