» Country Matters
Andrew Kay goes to The Bull in Ditchling for a spot of lunch
It was a hot Friday and I had spent more than enough time sitting in traffic trying to get to the South Of England Show at Ardingly. It was a launch pad for the Sussex Food Awards, an initiative that I wholeheartedly support and one that I urge you all to get behind too. It’s only by talking about and supporting local food producers and retailers that we can, collectively, start to change the way people shop for food. The show itself is not really my cup of tea. I am filled with respect for the livestock producers who form its core, I just cannot get that excited about pig pens and the like.
I am even less inspired by the myriad stalls that sell the sort of products that fill me with despair. You know the stuff: clever slicers, magnetic window cleaning devices and electronic gadgets made by companies whose name I have never heard. All this dotted amongst an almost alarming number of stalls selling green wellies, raincoats, hats, brogues, walking sticks and the sundry accompaniments to a ‘genuine’ country existence.
I did spend a very nice half hour in the Taste Of Sussex marquee, where many of my favourite local producers had once again gathered to offer their wares. Coco Loco gave me some chili chocolate of such fire that I still carry the scars. That’s not to say that I didn’t like it, just that it should – and in fact, on close inspection, does – carry a health warning!
After that, I made my escape and not before time as by 1pm I had been feasted on by mozzies. I slowly made my way through the vast rural car park that is the South Of England Showground and back to Ditchling, where I decided a spot of lunch was in order. I parked, applied the antihistamine cream and headed for The Bull.
"’’These peas were fat, sweet and succulent - fresh as the moment when the pod went pop, as we used to say"
I like The Bull because it still looks like a pub and I had an inkling that they did fish and chips of a Friday. I was right. I planted myself on a bar stool and while I waited to order, started the quick Guardian crossword. It’s a bad habit, but one that I cannot kick.
Before too long, I had a pint of Harvey’s shandy and pretty soon a plate of fat chips, crisply battered cod, above average tartare sauce and excellent peas. I guess they were frozen, but if they are good enough for Heston Blumenthal then they are good enough for anyone. That said, they so often disappoint, starchy and dry. These were fat, sweet and succulent – fresh as the moment when the pod went pop, as we used to say. It cost about £10 but was worth it, as the fish was creamy and fresh and the batter, made with Harvey’s bitter I believe, formed a perfect crisp and encapsulating crust.
Now I know that I always say Bardsley’s in Brighton is best, and I still think it is, but this was pretty damned good. The service was nice too, as was the presentation, and I was left in peace to read.
As I prepared to leave, a young mother arrived with her child. She asked if she could order some food and the girl at the bar replied that the kitchen was about to close but that she would ask the chef. Now, it was a piping hot day and the kitchen had just finished a busy lunch service so at 2.30 they would have been perfectly entitled to say that the kitchen was closed. But she returned to say that they would stay open and prepare a lunch for her. And for that I give them top marks.
The Bull, 2 High Street, Ditchling, West Sussex, 01273 843147
